Gem setting and articles of jewelry made therefrom



Feb. 5, 1952 c. HOLL 2,584,207

GEM SETTING AND ARTICLES OF JEWELRY MADE THEREFROM Filed July 25, 1950='L E llllllllillllll Illllllllllll llllJllllllllIlll A? Z Z/ 2 2/ Z4 Z2Fl634 FIGIO.

IN V EN TOR. CHARLES HOLL ATTOR/VE Y Patented Feb. 5, p 1952 UNITEDSTATES- PATENT OFFICE I GEM SETTING AND ARTICLES OF JEWELRY MADETHEREFROM Charles Holl, New York, N. Y. Application July 25, 1950,Serial No. 175,764

. 3 Claims. 1 This invention relates to prong settings for diamonds andother precious stones.

Broadly, it is an'object of the invention to provide 2. prong setting orunit for a precious stone and a link to hold such settings togetherwhich will permita necklace, or other article of jewelry, made of suchprong settings, a large degree of flexibility laterally.

More particularly, it is an object of the invention to make finer andstronger necklaces and which will allow more light to pass through andbe refracted by the stone thus giving greater brilliancy to' the stoneset within the setting.

Another important object of the invention is to attach the prong post tothe outside of the setting unit so as to provide a strong prong to holdthe diamond within the setting.

Still another object is to provide opposed prongs fashioned from prongposts attached outside of the setting along an axis 90 to thelongitudinal axis of the necklace or bracelet made from such prongsettings to give a highly ornamental'effect tosuch necklace or otherarticle of jewelry.

Another object is to provide a setting unit in' which the upper edgetapers inwardly leaving a fine outer edge so that when the diamond isset within the setting the outermost circumference or girdle of eachdiamond practically touches the adjacent diamond to form a continuouschain of diamonds providing an article of jewelry of greater beauty.Since the outside diameter or girdle of the diamond is practically thesame as the outside diameter of the setting, larger stones may beused incomparison to the outside diameter and size of the setting thanheretofore; that is, larger stones can be used with smaller settings.

Another object is to provide a U-shaped link to hold the settingstogether, the ends of which are soldered to a single setting givingflexibility and strength to the chain of settings.

Still another object is to provide opposed forked prongs to hold a stonein the setting more firmly.

Another object is to provide double opposed prongs to firmly holdcertain sized stones within Fig. 1 bent arcuately along the longitudinalaxis of 'the chain.

Fig. 3' is a side view of the settings shown in Fig. 1.

Fig. 4 is a sectional view of the settings linked together taken along55 of Fig. 1.

Fig. 5 is a sectional view taken through line t-t of Fig. 1.

Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken through line l-l of Fig. 3.

Fig. '7 is a bottom view of two links of the settings.

Fig. 8 is an end view of a single setting without a stone set within thesetting and before the prongs are bent inwardly.

Fig. 9 is a plan view of a stone set within a modified setting, theopposed prongs being forked.

Fig. 10 is a plan view of a stone set within another modified setting,showing four prongs, two opposed on each side.

Referring to the drawing, numeral 10 represents five settings of anecklace or a like piece of jewelry each setting comprising a hollowcylindrical form I I having two opposed cylindrical posts I2 attached tothe outside wall of the cylindrical setting H by brazing, soldering, orother well known means, upon an axis at right angles to the longitudinalaxis of the necklace. The posts I2 extend above the upper wall of thecylindrical form or setting I I forming opposed prongs I3 which areadapted to be bent inwardly to hold a diamond or other precious stone M,as best shown in Fig. 5. A means of firmly attaching the posts !2 to thesetting or form I I is to provide two opposed vertical semi-circularchannels of the same radius as the posts i2 and then soldering the posts[2 within the channels so formed, as best shown in Fig. '7. The radiusof the posts l2 should be less than the thickness of the wall of thecylindrical form'or setting i I so that the post l2 does not weaken theform or setting I I. A pair of opposed slits l5-I5 are provided in thesetting or form H which run parallel to the knife-like edge 18 is formedaround the u per outer circumference of the setting II. The inner wallI!) of the prongs l3 may be slightly tapered upwardly, as shown in Fig.8 so that the dongitudinal axis 23 of the necklace.

largest diameter or girdle of the stone I4 will fit snugly upon theupper knife-like edge I8 and the outermost circumference of the stone I4will coincide with the circumference of the setting I I and theknife-like edge I8.

A U-shaped link 20 having a semi-circular end 2| and a pair of opposedlegs 22 is attached to the setting II by inserting the legs 22 into theopposed slits 15 on either side of the bridge-like portion I6 with theend 2| projectin outwardly from the setting I I at right angles to thevertical axis of the setting II, and on each side of the Each setting IIis disposed so that the projecting link '29 has its end 2I encircle thefree bridge-like portion 24 of the adjacent setting II. The legs 22 maybe split like I2,

'out departing from the general spirit of the invention.

I claim: 1. A setting for a necklace or the like in combination with astone, said settin comprising a are preferably soldered in the positionshown best in Fig. 7 to the setting I I and their ends 25 ground down tocoincide with the inner circumference .26 of the setting II. Link 28 islong enough so that the outer circumferences of the settings II touchone another and allow the settings II to roll one upon the otherpermitting free limited movement between adjacent connected settingslaterally, as shown in Fig. 2 giving the necklace a large degree offlexibility and making a particularly strong linkage for the setting II.Prongs generally fashioned from the same material as the housing orsetting for the stone are not as strong as the prongs heretoforedescribed.

It should be particularly noted that the posts I2 are attached to theoutside wall of the setting. The posts I2 can thus be of sufficientdiameter to impart great strength to the prongs I3 while providing apair of opposed semi-circular profjections parallelin the longitudinalaxis of the necklace I giving an interesting and decorative effect tothe article of jewelry.

It should also be noted that only a small por tion of the U-shaped end2I of the link extends into the hollow of the setting II so that amaximum amount of light passes through the stone I4 and the setting thusgiving greater brilliancy to the stones than was heretofore obtainable.

By providing a knife-like upper edge I8 for the setting with the upperwall I! tapered inwardly the largest diameter or girdle of the 'stone I4can rest upon the edge I8. Since the settings II touch one another, thestones I4 can touch one another giving a continuous line of stones andpermitting very small settings to be used with stones of largerdiameters than stones used in comparable settings. Furthermore, thestones I4 may beset lower because of the tapered upper wall I l at thesame time providing a better seat for the stone.

After the stone I4 is lowered into the setting H, the prongs I3 are bentinwardly upon the upper taper 2! of the stone. The outer edge 28 of theprong I3 is then rounded by filing or polishing, as shown in thefigures.

In Fig. 9, a modification of the prongs I3 is shown. The upper portionof the prong I2 is split and bent to the right and left of the lateralaxis thus spreading the points of contact with the stone and holding itmore firmly within the setting.

In Fig. a further modification is shown, wherein four prongs I 2" areused, two on each opposed side of the setting. For use with largersettings and stones it may be desirable to use four prongs tobe surethat the stone is more firmly held within the setting. Of course, eachhollow cylindrical form having its upper wall tapering inwardly anddownwardly leaving an outer sharp edge, the outer circumference of saidstone being equal to the outer circumference of said setting, saidsetting having opposed slits perpendicular to the longitudinal axis ofsaid setting, a bridge between and ,at each end of said slits, means forretaining said stone on said setting, said meanscomprising solely a pairof opposed vertical prong posts attached to the outside of said settingparallel to the axis of said setting, said prong posts extending abovethe upper edge of said setting and bent inwardly over a portion of saidstone, said prong posts in a plane at right angles to the plane of saidbridges, a U-shaped fastening link, said link having a semi-circular endand a pair of opposed legs of equal length projecting beyond thecircumference and at right angles to the axis of said setting, said legswithin said opposed slits and on either side of one of said bridges andattached to said setting.

2. In a necklace or the like, the combination of a plurality of likesettings in a single row and a stone in each setting, each said settingcomprising a hollow cylindrical form having its upper wall taperinginwardly and downwardly leaving an outer sharp edge, the outercircumference of each of-sa'id stones being equal to the outercircumference of each of said settings, each of said settings havingopposed slits perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of said settings, abridge between and at each end of said slits, said slits below thehorizontal center of said setting, opposed vertical prong posts attachedto the outside of each of said settings parallel to said axis of saidsettings and in diametrical plane at right angles to the longitudinalaxis of the necklace, said prong posts extending above the upper edge-ofsaid settings and bent inwardly to hold said stone Within each of saidsettings, each setting having a U-shaped fastening link, each of saidlinks having a semi-circular end and a pair of opposed legs of equallength, said legs within said opposed slits and on either side of one ofsaid bridges, said legs attached to said setting, a small portion of thesemi-circular end of said links appearing within said hollow cylindrical,jform and projecting at right angles to the vertical axis of saidsettings and on each side of the longitudinal axis of said necklace, thesaid settings being so disposed that the projecting link of one of saidsettings encircles a free bridge of the adjacent setting whereby thesettings are movably connected permitting said necklace flexibilitylaterally.

3. In a necklace or the like, the combination of a plurality of likesettings in a single row and a stone in each setting, each said settingcomprising a hollow cylindrical form having .its upper wall taperinginwardly and downwardly leaving an outer sharp edge, the outercircumference of each of said stones being equal to the outercircumference of each of said settings, each of said settings havingopposed slits perpendicular to the longitudinal axis of said settings, abridge between and at each end of said slits, said slits below thehorizontal center of said setting, opposed vertical prong posts attachedto the outside of each of said settings parallel to said axis of saidsettings and in diametrical plane at right angles to the longitudinalaxis of the necklace, said prong posts extending above the upper edge ofsaid settings, the

upper part of said prong posts split forming prongs bent inwardly to theright and left of the lateral axis of said settings to hold said stonewithin each of said settings, each said setting having a U-shapedfastening link, each of said links having a semi-circularend and a pairof opposed legs of equal length, said legs within said opposed slits andon either side of one of said bridges, said legs attached to saidsetting, a small portion of the semi-circular end of said linksappearing within said hollow cylindrical form and projecting at rightangles to the vertical axis of said settings and on each side of thelongitudinal axis of said necklace, the said settings being so disposedthat the projecting link of one of said settings encircles a free bridgeof the adjacent setting, whereby the said settings are movably connectedso that the stones lie face up on the neck of the wearer permitting saidnecklace lateral flexibility.

CHARLES HOLL.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date 1,030,990 Farnham July 2, 1912 go1,518,745 Mehrlust Dec. 9, 1924

